In cosmetic skin-care products, being able to claim an anti-wrinkle effect is a major argument, because it corresponds to a very great consumer expectation, and consumer fidelity can be achieved by producing visible results.
Wrinkles are nothing more or less than the depletion of collagen in the skin. They appear as folds in the skin caused by age or weight loss. This loss of collagen results in deficiencies of nutritional exchange within the skin. Historical studies on wrinkles reveal that the turnover of cells in the area is slower and their ability to synthesize the supporting fibers is diminished. Skin actually gets thinner with age, and its ability to be nourished is reduced due to a reduction in the area of exchange interface between the dermis, which supplies the nutrients, and the epidermis.
The success of product lines containing retinoids (Vitamin A) is clear, but these often run into problems due to irritative side effects, which make them unsuitable for prolonged use. Chemical peels and Laser resurfacing are effective therapies, but can have a rather brutal effect on the skin, which remains red and fragile for 2 to 6 weeks. Also, the possibility of interstitial filling by injecting collagen, silicon, Goretex® or hyaluronic acid requires great skill in administering peri-epidermal injections, and although they are immediately effective, this effect may be short-lived in patients whose skin is undergoing very active biodegradation.
By definition, an "anti-wrinkle" product is intended for long-term use and this aspect must be taken into account, and its formulation based on well-tolerated substances. The aspects targeted in such a product need to be able to stimulate fibroblast activity to reconstitute the natural mesh of connective tissue, especially in aged skin. This report condenses information from a clinical study, which shows that the ingredients in RELASTYL progressively efface wrinkles utilizing long-chain peptides to build collagen.
The MATRIXYL Connection
There is no product on the market like RELASTYL. The active ingredient, a French formula by the trade name of MATRIXYL, has demonstrated a significant effect on collagen formation in clinical tests. A 3% MATRIXYL cream progressively effaces the wrinkles, and RELASTYL contains the 3% MATRIXYL formula, plus other wonderful ingredients to promote healthy skin.
Butylene Glycol, one of the major components of MATRIXYL, and the second ingredient in Relastyl, contains a pentapeptide. This element enhances the fusion of collagen and skin fibers, thereby restoring the fiber structure and the skin’s ability to resist stretching.
Results of a 6-month double-blind laboratory test using a 3% MATRIXYL cream solution produced a reduction of the surface area occupied by deep wrinkles by a mean of -68% over 6 months, and in some cases was reduced by as much as 90%. In the same clinical study, the surface area occupied by moderate wrinkles was reduced by a mean of 51%. The density of the main furrows was reduced by -47% and the mean area of the main (deepest) wrinkle was reduced by -22%.
MATRIXYL can correct the aging process and promote the reappearance of the characteristics of a younger skin. It stimulates, in a physiological manner, the main support structures of the dermis and epidermis. Collagen I is the predominant collagen in reconstructed healthy skin, and healthy skin requires a good dermo-epidermal interface (collagen IV and collagen VII).
Both MATRIXYL and Vitamin C (topical) stimulate the synthesis of the extra-cellular matrix in vitro and ex vivo to very different extents:
Formation of Collagen I: +117% for MATRIXYL versus +42% for Vitamin C.
Formation of Collagen IV: +327% for MATRIXYL versus +229% for vitamin C.
MATRIXYL also stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans: +267%.
Clinical results show that the physiological activity of the MATRIXYL peptide in the skin is progressive and intensifies with time. Results of the study show a reduced volume of main furrows (deepest wrinkles) at: 2 months (-6%), 4 months (-21.8%), 6 months (-24.4%), and a marked reduction in the mean density of the wrinkles at 2 months (-28.0%), 4 months (-31.5%), 6 months (-46.8%).
The MATRIXIL ingredient in RELASTYL is in the form of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3. Nutraceutics in 2004 was the last manufacturer allowed to continue the purchase of this formula from the laboratory, as the laboratory has gone into a more pharmaceutical direction with this ingredient. Other key ingredients in RELASTYL, not present in the double blind study, yet a significant enhancement of the MATRIXYL formula used in the study are: Butylene Glycol (moisturizer), Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit, Squalane, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract and Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract.
Natural Skin Replacement
Two systems are involved in the natural replacement of the skin: 1) a "central" system, dominated by the pituitary and the hypothalamus, which secretes hormones such as growth hormone (GH) and Insulin Growth Factors (IGF), the levels of which tend to decline with age, leading to a slower cell metabolism; 2) a "local" system, which depends on the peptides derived from the secretions by various cell types. This "local" system has been devised by nature both to provide a rapid response to tissue injury, and to insure the regular replacement of tissues.
RELASTYL feeds the "local" system, and utilizes long-chain peptides to build collagen, reverse wrinkles and help prevent the formation of skin tears (stretch marks) due to pregnancy or weight loss. While not the subject of this report, it is worthy to note that our MediTropin second-generation anti-aging secretagogue formula (developed in the mid-1990s) contains key nutrients that help to nourish the hypothalamus and pituitary gland, to address the needs of the "central" system in the natural replacement of the skin. MediTropin also contains the amino acids relevant to strengthening the building blocks of proteins and enzymes, hormone production, immune function, repair and growth of muscle, and neurotransmitter production.
The Use of Peptides
Fibroblasts are cells that contribute actively to the connective tissue repair process and have the ability to reconstitute and tighten the matrix of an aging skin structure. Researchers have observed that fibroblasts in aged tissue do not produce much collagen. However, after they have been isolated from their tissue and exposed to endogenous stimulating factors, they once again produce significant quantities of collagen. These observations suggest that it is possible to invigorate the mesh structure, even in very aged cells… offering a long-term advantage over interstitial filling by injection.
So, how can the synthesis capacity of the fibroblast be re-invigorated? For cosmetic use, the "feedback" peptides (fragments of the matrix protein) provide an appropriate approach. Peptides are selective natural messengers immediately recognized by the cell. The key to a successful formula was to find a suitable peptide (MATRIXYL), which could stimulate the natural reconstitution of the connective tissue mesh by its action on the fibroblasts.
The MATRIXIL pentapeptide is a water/glycol solution containing Palmitoyl-Lysyl-Threonyl-Threonyl-Lysyl-Serine in that sequence. This specific peptide sequence was chosen because, when added to cultured human fibroblasts it enhances the synthesis of Collagen I, Collagen III and fibronectin. This is a very specific effect. Shorter peptides and those with a different sequence, display activity that is either negligible or even inhibitory! Competing skin care products with "peptide" ingredients are not necessarily efficacious, and this specific peptide chain is unavailable to competing skin care companies.
Palmitoyl pentapeptide, used in RELASTYL, has a more marked impact on low-density cultures (sub-confluence) of fibroblasts than on higher density, confluent structures. This is an interesting situation because it is closer to that of aging skin, which has reduced population of fibroblasts: making RELASTYL ideal for tissue regeneration of both younger and aged skin.
On a separate note, there are many women who have maintained good skin on the face as the result of quality skin care services, but have neglected the skin on the décolleté as it now crapes from age, and sun damage. The use of HydrogenRich Water, Nutraceutics’ Serum C (vitamin C topical) followed by RELASTYL will conform the décolleté to the facial skin.
*These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.